Sunday, May 30, 2010

Montreal Chez Queux Restaurant

Chez Queux, is a petite  restaurant Francaise located (158 St. Paul Street East) in a charming stone building with the patina of age and graceful stability in the Old Montreal "Vieux Montreal" section of the city of Montreal, Canada, a block or two from the beautiful St. Laurence River. Operating since 1973, Chez Queux staunchly withstands economic fluctuations that close doors of lesser dining establishments.

 Our experience: Arriving earlier than scheduled, we were met by the respectable French CanadianMaitre d',  who promptly led us through walnut panelled portals to a petite, high ceilinged dining room lit by a series of dimunitive chandeliers and a large bay window open to St. Paul Street, a perfect portrait of the flower bedecked street, women shoppers wearing jewel toned sun dresses, sandaled men in khaki shorts and T shirts.

From the less than ample wine list, we chose an excellent bottle of white Bordeaux --"Vignobles Pargade 2007 Graves Blanc AOC"--reasonably priced, suitably aged, somewhat dry--a wine to sip philosophically in the summer afternoon, especially in the quiet ambience of the Chez Queux dining room, the old-world charm and secure respectability of a restaurant that is here to stay.

The Maitre d' brought chopped cold salmon, lightly tossed with herbs, not salty, served on small white porcelein spoons, a complimentary starter with the wine. With the white Bordeaux in the chandelier lit dusk of early summer, we studied the categories of  seafood, poultry and red meats. The Table D'Hote sounded tempting, a salmon tartar with Feta cheese and mango, a duck foie gras, to start, or perhaps braised bison ribs with celeriac puree with goat cheese. I won't mention the sea bass with smoked salmon butter, fennel in a crusty dough, as have reached the age where butter is not an option. The fresh market soup was a carrot purree. Unable to dine on that level, we ordered a la carte.

Mark chose to start with escargot wading in green sauce with mushrooms and garlic. The snails were cooked comme il faut-- tender, not rubbery, herbally seasoned, but not overpowering. Next was Caesar's salad for two, artfully rendered tableside with crisp romaine lettuce, a dab of Dijon mustard, a dollop of minced anchovies, the to-be-expected raw egg, freshly grated cheese, croutons and a few secret ingredients. A good choice, but filling.

For the main dish, the roasted duck with berry sauce intrigued me, but I chose rack of lamb with herbs because the duck is best served rare,  for savoriness. (I can imagine this very rare, as my lamb, requested medium, was in the pink.) Presentation was impeccable, portions adequate, even ample--at least 4 lamb chops, and a need for a carry home bag. Mark chose the lobster and wasn't disappointed. 

Creme Brulee, skillfully prepared, for desert with  Chez Queux coffee--refulgent with liqueurs, fortified us with feelings of  bonhomie and optimism, to amble the circuitous cobbled streets of artisans booths and performers on our way back to the Fairmont Queen Elizabeth.
 
Chez Queux restaurant in Montreal, though pricey, is an experience we would repeat.
Website: http://www.chezqueux.com/

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